Just a thought

Their lives ended. One minute you’re talking over the intercom to your friend in the other seat in the helicopter,or walking your dog,telling him to get off the tracks, or your telling your wife that you love her, or kicking out off that last wave just a bit closer to shore than you wanted to be ,or blinking the water out of your eyes as you bank hard into the turn on your motorcycle, or stumbling half blind in a shocked God-make it a dream-state away from the Doctors office ,or falling off to sleep after a  very long battle.

Life,no life; just like that.

The author Carlos Castenadas wrote a series of books that centered initially on his mentor, Don Juan Matus.Don Juan was a man at peace with every aspect of his life. Senor Matus had accepted his death,the inevitability of his demise and the simple fact that it could happen at any moment. He lived ,in his words ,”the life of a warrior” .A warrior, in the sense that life could end and so why not live life as if you had an hour or a minute or a moment. His belief relieved Don Juan of all the burdens we carry through our too short lives.

Worry, Why? Love ,but know that you cannot make someone love you. With life about to end would you spend your last moments bothering to be petty, peevish, resentful ,angry, cruel, rude or any of a thousand things that none of us would want to be remembered for?

Those feelings and actions were unnecessary to Don Juan. Don Juan attained the unattainable and in so doing set an impossible goal for the rest. So, is it enough that I make it a goal for my life as well,knowing for certain that I will die in the attempt ? I can’t worry.

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Grammar exercise

I don’t write particularly well. I am not a good writer. A good writer uses short concise sentences in his own voice. My punctuation or lack of it, coupled with my bizarre use of spacing can make even my short sentences seem like code breaking. This final draft of the blog is readable through the head shaking efforts of Paula, who edits and suffers mostly in silence.

I enjoyed writing all through school, but when grammar appeared on the curriculum I could barely focus on the blackboard. Verbs, nouns and adjectives were within my mental grasp and when forced to pass a test I could come up with enough pronouns and adverbs to scrape by. I could never have stated the difference between a connective and a conjunction at gun point. For somebody who likes to write its a bad spot to be in.

I ended the previous sentence with a preposition. Most English teachers will tell you that a preposition is a good word to end a sentence with.’ Winston Churchill, when corrected after ending a sentence with a preposition replied, “This is the type of arrogant pedantry, up with which I shall not put.

Recently I heard a conversation between a Newfoundland Forester and a Professor of Biology conducted over the forestry radio frequency.

“Hey Doc, where are you at?” The professor answered, “I am back at the logging camp” and then added, “Why must you end sentences with a preposition?” The Newfie Forester didn’t respond for a few seconds but then  transmitted the following for all to hear: “Well excuse me Doc, let me try again. Hey Doc, where are you atasshole?

My goal is to improve my blog grammar while still using my own voice. If I was tempted to describe a great travel day by writing, “it was a rather lovely day” it would sound ridiculous. I don’t talk like that. “Now then, that, was a good day!” Thats my voice. Please, if you read anything in my following blogs that doesn’t sound like me; tell me. You have my permission to, figuratively or literally, if thats more fun for you, slap me on the side of my bristly head. Believe me, the literal slap will probably be easier than anything you attempt to write.

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Same tribe, different town

Buffalo Narrows. The shithead capitol of Northern Saskatchewan. The clean morning light couldn’t put a happier face on this litter strewn, rag bag of a mostly Indian town. Garbage, ravens and an ATV- sans-muffler, to get my morning started.

“Rick, do you feel as bad as you look?” I asked my engineer.

“If I look like my head is about to explode then, yes.” he answered. “Just a couple of beers,” I laughed.

“Not so loud”, Rick winced and pushed his palms to his temples.

“We could try and wake our former crew to help load this crap in the helicopter: except I believe you threatened to beat the shit out of that big Indian, whats- his- name, Isaac?”

“No, I was talking to his girlfriend,” Rick said. “She kept grabbing me under the table”.

“How, have you managed to live this long Rick? You noticed that I did not hang around long last night? I have seen these end of forest fire parties before. I buy  some rounds for the tables, chug my beer before the natives get restless, shake some hands and then I back out the door smiling. You’ll live longer that way.”

“I’ll try and remember that Keith, now give me a hand with this Bambi bucket”.

Forest fire season had began with multiple starts after a huge storm had marched through this part of the country. We would be following the smoke Northwest to another fire and basing at an Indian Village. A dry town, (no alcohol) the Provincial dispatcher had advised me. Some recovery time for Rick if his head didn’t explode en-route, I thought.

Flying overhead the town a couple of hours later I had no trouble identifying it as a dry village. The houses had doors and windows, no garbage insight, boats in good shape, snowmobiles on trailers and no wrecked trucks to be seen. The Forestry compound was going to be a dusty landing with our big bird, but that could not be helped.

Climbing down from the Sikorsky S-58 , the district ranger commented that he heard us coming before we radioed the base. “Its a noisy beast” I replied. “We flew by your fire” I added:, “no other aircraft working  it, right?”

“No sir, you are it”

We would be unloading about half our gear according to the Ranger and his fire crew would help us. Rick looked very relieved. Introductions all around as the firefighters walked up and shook hands. Abel, Jonah, Zeke, Peter and so on. Eight biblical names. Clear eyed, strong looking Cree Indians. All products of the Catholic missionary school system I guessed.

Edward Abbey, author and all around trouble maker of the best kind, once wrote, “The missionaries brought Christianity to the natives; as if they weren’t dangerous enough already”. These healthy looking young men were so different from the native crews on the previous fire. It confirmed what I had told Rick this morning as we flew over here. Some cultures shouldn’t consume alcohol. Rick had responded by saying that his Mother was Ojibway and his father was Irish. Good combo I chuckled to myself. A rye whiskey heritage and no ability to handle it.

With the helicopter loaded and our plan in place we were roaring up and out of the compound with half our crew and the usual initial attack gear. Chain saws, pulaskis (a kind of hoe, ax head tool), shovels, fuel cans, nets, lines, axes, hammer/hatchets, our water buckets and some over night gear. The task was to locate a safe staging area and either land there or place the sawyers where they could walk in and cut and build a helipad. The fire was running on a hillside between two big lakes and over the intercom I sized up the situation with Abel the crew boss who sat below and behind me. Abel’s legs hung out out the door and he looked at the places I had in mind for staging as we orbited the fire. I could just make out Abel’s face as he nodded approval of my ideas. My choice for placing fire pumps on a section of lake shore met with a puckering of lips, a Cree sign for bad idea. “Ok, so where would you like me to put the pumps Abel?” I asked. Abel pushed his chin towards a little creek that ran between the lakes. It was a better spot, that I had not seen.

Crees don’t like to talk much. They are very economical in their use of our language. There were two hand held radios for the crew but I didn’t expect to hear much on that frequency. I could tell that these guys knew what they were doing when I set them on a rock outcrop by the lakes edge. The gear was off fast, heavy items on top and men on top of the gear. Abel gave me the thumbs up and I was off and returning to the compound for more men and gear. Over the radio I told Abel what I would be doing with men and gear placement on return. No response, so I added the remark, “if that works for you Abel.”

“Yeah” came the radio response. Well, confirmation and communication check complete I thought. I was going to enjoy working the fire with these guys. Men who got the job done wihout a lot of yacking.

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Standing on the Battlefield Part 3

Howie, our guide @ Gettysburg

Gettysburg Museum and Visitors Center. Our guide strode quickly across the lobby, introduced himself and gave us a rapid outline of our itinerary. We were on our way to the parking lot walking fast and listening closely to what would be a busy two hours. I had been a little apprehensive that my limited knowledge of The Battle of Gettysburg would show in my lack of insightful comments and detailed questions. It was obvious in the first two minutes that questions and comments were only accepted when the man took a breath or drink from his water bottle. I think that happened twice. I had forgotten how fast easterners can talk. Its a 26 mile trip around the Battlefield and I sat listening and looking, my head panning in the front seat like a spectator at a tennis tournament. Paula was snapping photos at a rate that looked like 500 shots may not be enough. Any thoughts of note taking had been abandoned, but the whole presentation was clear, exciting, informative and interspersed with walkabouts in key places.

I will not attempt to describe what we experienced that afternoon. There is too much information to relate in my little blog. I would only say that if you have any interest in American History and have studied or read about the Civil War in books or even seen the  mini series Gettysburg then a guided tour is worth your time.

We began at day one of the battle and drove and walked through days two and three. For me it was like it happened last year. Our guides descriptions and observations were so vivid and detailed I felt a flood of emotions. You cannot look at a small one acre hayfield where upwards of 4,000 casualties lay dead, wounded, dying and not be moved. It was this same hayfield that the Father I mentioned previously had searched for and sadly found his son.

Towards the end of the tour we stood and looked down at the fields the Confederates had charged across on that last horrible July afternoon. It would have appeared as it does now a hopeless, wasted, futile task to attack the position where we now stood. The why of it can never be answered.  The Union soldiers who stood where we were standing, laughed and shouted down to the Confederate soldiers, “come to Jesus” and “come to meet your maker” and yet they couldn’t help but be impressed at those men who kept coming.

I am not a military strategist but General Lee was and most certainly General Longstreet, his second in command of the Army of Northern Virginia was. There may have been no better soldiers and strategists in the Civil War than these two men. And yet, a charge was ordered that seemed totally illogical. It has been said that when Lee asked Longstreet his thoughts on the frontal attack he proposed of the Union’s center, that Longstreet merely shook his head, no.

When pressed, Longstreet replied that no 15,000 soldiers ever born could take that position.

I asked Howie our guide what he would have been thinking and feeling had he been in that Confederate charge looking across at the hopeless prospect of walking and running over a mile of open ground and up a bare ridge to what had to be certain death.

He said that he would have been doing what any of them were doing. He would have been praying and looking down the lines at, friends, cousins, brothers and uncles and know that he would walk with them where ever they would go.

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Standing on the Battlefield Part 2

Gettysburg. The flags snap in the bitter breeze as we quick step to the shelter of the breakfast cafe. Sweater weather that will warm when the sun gets above the Colonial rooftops.

Sweet potato pancakes and coffee, overhearing pieces of cafe gossip as a waitress starts in on the couple of odd ducks who just left. The usual small town chatter that never differs much where ever we travel. I smile at Paula as we eavesdrop. Phrases, overheard, “he had done some jail time”, “not quite right that one”.

“The family name?” followed by variations on McMillen, Miller, Mullen and then the shouted, “Thats it!”

I like small town folks, most times. Reminds me of a Newfoundland fishing guide from the port town of Cow Head. The fisherman had asked me, did I know Kenny Rogers? The singer? “Yes, the same”, he said and then told me his story.

“So I keep sayin to this fella that’s come fishin with us, ‘By, (boy) I know, I knows Ya’. So Mr. Rogers, he tells me his full name and I says, ‘that don’t seem right, I knows all the Rogers boys ’round here and I never knew a Kenny, but I knows I know Ya'”. Small town humor.

We are walking through the museum doors at 9 a.m. after guessing at the operating hours. The Museum is less than a month old and apparently they can’t bother posting their hours on the otherwise informative website. The truck is driven the short distance to the Museum since it will be used for the  guided tour. I voice concerns over a stranger driving our wide bodied truck around the narrow streets of Gettysburg. Paula laughs and asks me if I plan on asking the guide about his or her truck driving experience. Its a big truck I say and silently I hope our guide is a retired truck driver, which turns out to be the case. I am relieved and happy.

The guided tour is arranged for 11:30 and with a couple of hours till then we start in on the Museum. Its apparent early on we will be back after the guided tour to complete the Museums longer movies.

The Gettysburg Museum and Visitors Center is an impressive presentation of the Civil War as it existed at the time of this most significant battle. The Battle of Gettysburg is the most extensively recorded and documented battle in American history and the Museum does it great justice. The exhibits, videos, photos, paintings and letters affect me in a way I would not have expected. The battle happened almost 145 years ago and ended just the day before the country was to “celebrate” the 4th of July, but these “in your face” exhibits are somehow worse than todays news.

I see people wiping eyes and Paula asks me if it is upsetting for me as well? I stand poker faced reading of a Father who ran around the battlefield on that hot 4th of July. Surviving soldiers from his sons regiment have told him where to search. That battlefield area is so full of bodies that he regrets having to step on some of the bodies to reach his son. There are still wounded in the field and he has hopes of finding his son alive.

The Fathers letter to his anxious, waiting wife would tear the heart out of anyone. I turn to Paula and answer, “Does it upset me? Yes, if that is a big enough word”.

Its soon time to meet our guide and a drive in the fresh air will be a welcome respite.

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Standing on the Battlefield

Gettysburg. It had rained hard just a few hours earlier and the air was cool and damp with threatening clouds blowing in from the west. Paula and I had checked in to a Motel, which felt strange after the last 7 months traveling in our RV’s. The Motel was 60’s vintage, clean, compact, no frills and a door lock that could be opened by any 10 year old with a pocket knife.

“We won’t unload  much from the truck”, I said to Paula “and we won’t leave the room after dark. This town is pretty low crime I suspect, but nothing ruins a trip faster than having your belongings stolen.” We both had experienced being robbed while traveling. The consensus was that we would take a walk around in the evening light, grab some supper and back to the room to plan for tomorrow.

Cannon, facing the Peach Orchard

Cannon, facing the Peach Orchard

The rain resumed on our walk around the town and battlefield cemetery.

We hustled over to the restaurant enjoyed a Chinese Buffet and back to the room in the clammy gloom of near dark.  The next day was going to be the usual post storm weather, clear skies and brisk winds chasing the cold front to the east coast.

We decided that night on a two pronged assault of Gettysburg. The newly opened Gettysburg Museum and Visitors Center looked like a great starting point followed by a personal guided tour of the Battlefield and surrounding area. The Museum looked very extensive in all the online information we could gather and the Motel manager had strongly recommended using a personal guide to get around the battlefield area.

We felt like a couple of Junior College students cramming for a history final as we browsed online and read aloud literature and information about the Battle of Gettysburg. It was getting pretty late when we turned in and it was just as well that we were so tired. The Motel’s beds might have been from the 60’s as well.

Nothing that a hot shower and a good breakfast wouldn’t cure in the morning. Tomorrow should be a day to remember.

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Team Travel

” Oh, the Riviera“, she repeated. Yes, well its not always the leisurely life on the Riviera, I chuckled. I looked over at the young lady from the book store, smiled at Paula and added, some times we are camped out on a  frozen desert in Wyoming or a steamy bayou in Louisiana. Its not all luxury and that is a good thing.

Deb, from this small bookstore in Gananoque Ontario was very knowledgeable. Travel narratives, adventure travel books, travel writing books, she had a good selection and had obviously read quite a few of the books she selected and recommended for our upcoming trip to Italy. These should be good reading sitting on the beach on the Riviera, she laughed.

Paula and I are accustomed to peoples envious reactions and comments when we tell them we’re headed to a seemingly exotic locale for several weeks. It may sound idyllic and it often is, but just as often it requires a very flexible attitude and ability to cope with a challenging situation. We do pretty well when it comes to facing adversity while miles from home. Each of us has skills that compliment the other. When our travels go awry or the situation turns sour we know that one of us needs to take charge or jump in to help depending on the particular problem.

I’m good at dealing with almost any physical crisis or problem. Flat tires, driving in tight streets, not getting stuck, getting unstuck (yes, I know you told me), fixing broken things, sometimes things that I broke in a bit of a snit. Paula is good at personal interactions and convincing people to help us when I would rather not (ever) ask for assistance. For example:

The Military are near all State lines and highway intersections

The Military are near all State lines and highway intersections


We climbed out of the pitching boat at the ferry terminal in down town Belize City. It had been a long wonderful day snorkeling the reef off Caye Caulker. Tired and happy we soon realize that most of the taxis and their drivers were sleeping off the Christmas day celebrations at home with friends and family. Walking into the heart of Belize City after dark is safe enough if you follow a few simple steps.

We stay to the main streets, walking purposefully to another taxi stand. No taxis. From the street to our left a voice says, “where you from?”

“Here” we respond in unison.

“Looking for a taxi to get home?”

Our new friend knows where there is a taxi. I check him out and give him the look that requires no words. Paula smiles and says thanks as we walk on. He leads the way and in a few minutes we have our taxi.

The taxi driver negotiates the fare with Paula who makes it known that we have made the Belize City to Cucumber Beach trip a few times and her regular driver charges less. I keep my eye on our friend and open the door for Paula after agreeing to the fare. Our friendly guide does not like the tip I am offering and says so. The driver stands by his door and I tell the driver that our friend here wants some of his tip money. The driver tells our friend to take the tip offered and take a walk. “That’s your problem mon”, he says to our guide and we are on our way home.

Another day we are stopped at a military check point. I never shut off the engine at these stops. You want to appear that you are not planning on parking. Just a quick couple of questions and we will be on our way.

Smiles all around as the man with the gun asks a few questions. Paula takes over after I have failed my Spanish interrogation. Yes, he can look inside. Does the dog bite he asks?  Paula says no, no problema and I shrug my shoulders and say mas o menos. Zoey continues to bark and snarl. The side door of the RV is opened and Zoey goes wild barking, growling and snapping her teeth. Even more quickly the door is slammed shut.

The soldiers laugh at their obviously shaken comrade, who stands wide eyed outside the RV. Paula smiles sweetly out her window and says, “lo ciento,senor” (sorry). The soldiers laughing, wave us on with “Endele, buen viaje”

Zoey, runs to snarl out the back window and returns looking up breathlessly at Paula. ” Good job” we tell Zoey. Good job everyone.

Posted in Belize, Mexico travel, RV Travel, World Travel | Tagged | 2 Comments

Some Days

The other night as the storm approached I went outside and pulled my hammock down and tucked it into storage. It had been a warm humid day and the towering cumulus had been building all through the late afternoon. This storm had been created some 100 miles down Lake Ontario and had pushed its way west till it funneled into the St. Lawrence River and the 1000 Islands. Like most summer evening storms, they roll through and are gone as fast as they came. This storm rained down, lightning hitting the Islands on the river and then we heard the wind. We could hear it through the forest to the west of us and when it got to our RV it was too late to worry about the awning we had out. Our location, sheltered as we were in the trees kept the winds effect minimized down near ground level so the awning was doing fine.

Then came the sound of a tree cracking followed by the breaking sound they make as the trunk rips apart. It was coming down and what was frightening is that it sounded close. The next sound never came. That familiar branch crashing and thud as a tree crashes through its neighbors to the forest floor.
Paula and I quickly got the rain gear and flashlights. For certain our RV had been spared, but flashlights confirmed our truck had not fared so well. A few phone calls followed the next morning and before long we had the truck back on the road and the trailer moved to a my brothers Father-in-Laws till the truck can get fixed, hopefully. Insurance should cover the damage, which is significant, but we are under a time crunch. Tomorrow we hop a flight to Italy and its back to work for me in Albenga, Italy. We can only hope that “Like a good neighbor, State Farm is there” for us, and that this gets handled today. Wish us luck !

Could have been much worse and for that we are as always very grateful.

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Gardens of Colonial Williamsburg


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Still trying to figure it out

The beauty of the natural world surpasses anything man has yet created. It always will. Humans keep trying and in many cases man has constructed fantastic architectural  and artistic masterpieces.  Many of mans creations are built to house and celebrate religious beliefs. Like the natural world these man made structures represent things both wonderful and horrible. In nature the beauty of life is countered and balanced with inevitability of death. Death ,that arrives for some creatures in a brutal ,horrible fashion.

Man,however, remains one of the few creatures that takes a life for reasons outside of natures balance. The human races number one reason to take a human life ? Hint : It begins and often occurs in the same architectural masterpieces I mentioned earlier. Yes, those same incredible religious structures have  witnessed deaths, the sentencing of death and housed the dispatchers of Gods armies to wreak death and destruction on those who would believe contrary to themselves or sometimes the same as themselves.

I remember standing in the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence. Its a magnificent Church that dominates the Firenze skyline. A priest who stood near me  asked me what I thought of the Church?

‘Bellisimo” , I said “and to think, that Jesus probably never owned more than two pairs of simple sandals in his entire life. What does he think of all this?” It was a minor question really. What I really wanted to know is what does Jesus think of all this killing in his fathers name? But the priest had left .

The New Testament gives many references to God ,the big guy himself, actually terminating a lot of folks. If the numbers are right in the Bible it gives God credit for about 2,392,000 deaths. A few million more in his name for just cause shouldn’t really get God upset should it? I don’t know?

I visited several Mayan temples this winter in Mexico and Belize. Fantastic temples that among other things were home to human sacrifice. In some cases the beneficiaries of death for the noble cause were not just losers from the opposing force or virginal beauties but the winning captains of ball teams. That, is a tough win.

In Mexico City, at the main  Aztec temple of Tenochitlan the priests practiced a religious ritual that had them cutting the hearts out of their live victims at the incredible rate of perhaps 1000 people a day.

Makes Catholicism, the current religion of choice in Mexico seem pretty mild. I could name a hundred examples of death by religion.There are so many. Here are the major players and their numbers:

  1. Christianity: 2.1 billion
  2. Islam: 1.5 billion
  3. Secular/Nonreligious/Agnostic/Atheist: 1.1 billion
  4. Hinduism: 900 million
  5. Chinese traditional religion: 394 million
  6. Buddhism: 376 million
  7. primal-indigenous: 300 million
  8. African Traditional & Diasporic: 100 million
  9. Sikhism: 23 million
  10. Juche: 19 million
  11. Spiritism: 15 million
  12. Judaism: 14 million
  13. Baha’i: 7 million
  14. Jainism: 4.2 million
  15. Shinto: 4 million
  16. Cao Dai: 4 million
  17. Zoroastrianism: 2.6 million
  18. Tenrikyo: 2 million
  19. Neo-Paganism: 1 million
  20. Unitarian-Universalism: 800 thousand
  21. Rastafarianism: 600 thousand
  22. Scientology: 500 thousand ( includes1000 movie stars)

The simple ratio of numbers would suggest that Christians have probably killed more people in support of Christianity than any other religion. Exceptions would appear in the form of Quakers but even the Scientologists could kick their asses.

I have no idea which religion if any has the right to kill another human being because they differ in religious beliefs. The sixth commandment seems pretty clear on this one, Thou shalt not kill.

So ,maybe God is the only exception to this rule ? It was pointed out to me a few years back that even God was merciful when dealing with major sinners. Take the Sodomites. Please. God sent two Angels down to Sodom to warn the only four righteous people in town to get out of there before it was too late.

My question remains as it has in all these merciful examples. What of the innocents? Children too young to know anything of the evils of the world or simply born into a bad choice in religion. What happens to them?

Reconstituted back into the “correct” religion or just kicking back listening to the all time best childrens story teller of all time, Jesus Christ. Either way,sounds good to me.

As far as killing in the name of God ? I have a hard time getting my head around that one. I do know this.You try and kill me and I am going to do my best to see that you get to explain your actions to God long before I have to.

When I do face my inevitable end will I do everything I can to hang on? You bet. Thats the way it is with most humans. The natural world is worth hanging around for,if even just for one more day. An example of this was the diagnoses last year of Archbishop Christodoulos of Athens. A 68 year old man of God who had two types of cancer,diabetes and his recent hepatitis was going to necessitate a liver transplant.

The man was to say the least in poor health and by all religious ratings a shoe in for Greek Orthodox Heaven.Nevertheless the Archbishop was going for the surgery, heaven could wait.

Would God meet the Archbishop when his time came dressed as a female Whirling Dervish ? That would be funny and I believe God despite having smote more than 2.4 million people does have a sense of humor.

He created us and that, I have little doubt, has been the best practical joke ever played.


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